1. When to Plant

Ideally, trees are planted during the dormant season – in the fall after leaf drop or in early spring before budbreak. Weather conditions are cool and allow plants to establish roots in the new location before spring rains and summer heat stimulate new top growth. Healthy balled and burlapped or container trees, however, can be planted throughout the growing season if given appropriate care. In tropical and subtropical climates where trees grow year round, any time is a good time to plant a tree, provided that sufficient water is available.

2. Where to Plant

Determining where to plant a tree is a decision that should not be taken lightly. Many factors should be considered prior to planting. When planning what type of tree to plant, remember to look up and look down to determine where the tree will be located in relation to overhead and underground utility lines.

The greatest danger to underground lines occurs during planting. Before you plant, make sure that you are aware of the location of any underground utilities. To be certain that you do not accidentally dig into any lines and risk serious injury or a costly service interruption, call your utility company or utility locator service first. Never assume that these utility lines are buried deeper than you plan to dig.

Overhead utility lines are easy to spot, yet often overlooked. Planting tall-growing trees under or near these lines eventually requires your utility provider to prune them to maintain safe clearance from the wires. This pruning may result in the tree having an unnatural appearance. Periodic pruning can also lead to a shortened life span for the tree. Proper selection and placement of trees in and around overhead utilities can eliminate potential public safety hazards, reduce expenses for utilities and their customers, and improve landscape appearance.

3. Remove the Tree from Its Container

To ease your tree into the transplanting process, make sure that it is well-watered ahead of time, especially for trees that are balled and burlapped or bare root. When roots are exposed to air, they can dry out. Dry roots equal dead roots, so give the tree some water to ensure a healthy life.

Do not hold the tree by its trunk, as that can cause the trunk to snap off and kill the tree. If your tree is containerized, hold onto the container and gently slide the tree out. Do not leave the tree in bright sunlight or hot temperatures before you plant it. Instead, leave it somewhere cool in the shade.

Trees that are kept in containers for too long often have roots that grow in a circling pattern. As these wrap-around roots grow, they can “girdle” or strangle a tree. Use your hands to loosen and tease apart the roots. You can also take a sharp knife and cut an X in the bottom of the root ball to help break up overly compacted roots.

Remove grass and other plants in a several-foot radius from the planting hole. Grass can absorb water and nutrients that a young tree needs to thrive..

4. How Deep to Plant

Planting too deep is the top reason that trees and shrubs die. Follow these simple steps to ensure the correct planting depth for both balled-and-burlapped and potted trees.

A common mistake when planting a tree is to simply dig a large hole and add amended soil into the hole. This tends to cause a "container effect" on the tree's roots as they grow to the edge of the amended soil then begin girdling around the perimeter of the space. This can ultimately lead to the tree falling over in a high wind because the tree hasn't been able to properly anchor itself with its roots.

A better technique is to break up or cultivate the soil in a circular area around the location where the tree is to be planted. First, dig a whole that's the depth and diameter of the plant's container. Remove and discard grass and weeds from the planting site. Then break up and the soil around the hole so that it's loose. Measure the distance from the bottom of the root mass to the trunk flare. Dig the hole no deeper than this; you want the root mass to sit on undisturbed soil. When planting is complete, the trunk flare should be slightly above the existing soil grade.

Locate the point at which the trunk flares out to join the roots. On balled-and-burlapped trees, remove the twine and burlap at the base of the trunk. If necessary, gently push the soil away from the base of the trunk to find the flare.

5. Filling the Planting Hole

Gently place the tree in the center of the hole, and backfill the hole with the soil you dug out. When filling your hole with soil, don’t go any higher than the root flare — the spot where the trunk transitions into the roots at the base of the tree. The flare should be exposed and slightly above ground. It’s always better to plant your tree too high than too low.

Place the tree in the center of the hole on the undisturbed pedestal so the root crown (where the trunk meets the roots) is about 1-1/2 to 2 inches above the surrounding ground level.

6. Mulching

Mulches are materials placed over the soil surface to maintain moisture and improve soil conditions. Mulching is one of the most beneficial acts a homeowner can do for the health of a tree. However, improper mulching materials and practices may have little, or even negative, impact on the trees in your landscape.

Mulch is great to add after a tree is planted. It looks nice and, more importantly, it helps keep the soil moist. Apply mulch between 2 and 4 inches deep, starting at least four inches from the root flare and working your way outwards.

A common mistake is piling mulch against the trunk of the tree. Although you may have seen trees with thick applications of mulch against the truck and root flare — so-called “mulch volcanoes” — this can actually kill a tree. If mulch touches the tree’s root flare it can invite pests, cause the trunk to rot, or cause the tree’s roots to grow up into the mulch and girdle the tree.

7. Watering

Keeping your trees watered is important during their first year. Keep the soil and mulch moist but not soggy. In dry weather, you should water generously every 7–10 days. The water should soak into the soil and mulch. Avoid watering so much that you see standing water.

Trees need more water when they’ve just been planted than when they’re established. For the first two weeks after planting, water the tree every day. For three to 12 weeks after planting, water every two or three days. After that, give the tree plenty of water once a week until it’s established, which usually takes three years. There’s no need to water if there’s been adequate rainfall. Overall, you want the soil to be moist but not soggy.

8. Maintenance

Fertilizer does not fix all of a tree’s problems, and many trees don’t actually need fertilizer. So long as your tree is growing and its leaves look healthy, it doesn’t need any extra nutrients.

Consult with an arborist if your tree is showing signs of ill health like yellowing or dying leaves. Oftentimes these may be related to other issues, including over- or under-watering, compacted soil, improper pruning, or pests and disease. Check out Tree Care for more information!

Avoid using pesticides and herbicides. Many of these chemicals are linked to negative health outcomes for people, insects, and birds. Herbicides intended for weeds can wind up hurting your tree.

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